Kent State University Museum Features
the French Fashion Magazine from 1912-1925
La Gazette du Bon Ton

What: The exhibition — Gazette du Bon Ton

When: June 25, 2009, to May 30, 2010

Where: Palmer and Mull Galleries in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus.

Background: Between 1912 and 1925, the Gazette du Bon Ton sought to be "the place where couturiers and painters collaborate to compose the silhouette of their time." It was the brain child of Lucien Vogel, a dynamic Frenchman who was fascinated by nineteenth century hand-colored engravings and set out to create a luxury modern magazine that would be the epitome of good taste.

The Kent State University Museum will feature eighty-two original plates from the Algesa O'Sickey collection of Gazette du Bon Ton from 1920 to 1922 in its Palmer and Mull Galleries while the entire collection will be accessible on the Museum's Web site. Produced in limited editions on handmade paper, the series spared no expense and used the pochoir, or stencil, technique to hand watercolor what may be the twentieth's century's most extraordinary fashion plates. Twenty garments from 1912 to 1925 with digital surrogate fashion plates from this period will also be on display. The gowns are from the leading Parisian couture houses of the teens and twenties, such as those of Jeanne Paquin, Paul Poiret, Jeanne Lanvin and the House of Worth.

To mark the opening of the exhibition, the Kent State University Museum and the Massillon Museum have organized Deco Tour: Art Deco Meets Couture on June 27, 2009. This all-day event celebrates the 1920s and 1930s and will feature art, fashion and automobiles at two venues. In the morning, the Massillon Museum will showcase 1930s automobiles on its front lawn from 10 a.m. to1 p.m. and a free gallery lecture of the exhibit,The Rise of a Landmarl: Lewis Hine and the Empire State Building at 11 a.m. Admission is free. The Kent State University Museum is inviting owners of 1920s automobiles to show their vehicles in the museum parking lot from 3 - 6 p.m. Gallery tours of the three Art Deco exhibits (Great American Glass: The Roaring Twenties and Depression Era, The Kokoon Arts Club: Cleveland Revels, and Gazette du Bon Ton) will take place at 4 p.m. The tours are free with museum admission. In the evening Tangomania: A Masked Ball will be held at the Kent State University Museum at 8 p.m. Tickets are $25 and must be purchased separately through the KSU Museum before June 22 at 330-672-3450.

The Kent State University Museum is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.; and Sunday from noon to 4:45 p.m. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

The museum is located in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus. Special guided tours are available for groups by reservation. Free on-site motor coach parking is available.

For additional information about the Kent State University Museum, go to http://www.kent.edu/muusem/, or call (330) 672-3450.

# # #

Kent State University Museum Features
Rudi Gernreich

What: The exhibition — Rudi Gernreich: BOLD

When: July 3, 2008, to May 31, 2009

Where: Palmer and Mull Galleries in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus.

Background: Controversial, colorful and farsighted, Rudi Gernreich's work help change the course of American sportswear design. The exhibition on his work at the Kent State University Museum explores his legacy and presents over forty of the designer's minimal and occasionally shocking garments.

From his scandalous topless bathing suit of 1964 that was banned by the Pope and from beaches worldwide to his activewear that bludgeoned onlookers with vibrating colors and patterns, Rudi Gernreich's work was both experimental and representative of his time. Fascinated by a performance by Martha Graham, dance changed Rudi's concept of design, and unimpeded motion became the focus of his creed. Characterized by a simplicity of line, a love of strong saturated hues, and a daring sense of graphic design that used both the body and cloth as media, his work stood out in the 50s, 60s and 70s and often overstepped sociological boundaries.

The exhibition Rudi Gernreich: BOLD, on display between July 3, 2008 and May 31, 2009, will allow visitors to witness first hand the modernist approach of this infamous Californian designer. Immerged in Pop Art and Op Art, Gernreich looked to the street, not the elite, and produced functional and joyful informal garments. Thought provoking and rooted in the emerging youth culture, he freed women's bodies from binding clothing and undergarments. A man of great talent and an activist, he was a feminist who saw women as strong and uninhibited and sought equality for the sexes through his work.

The Kent State University Museum is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.; and Sunday from noon to 4:45 p.m. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

The museum is located in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus. Special guided tours are available for groups by reservation. Free on-site motor coach parking is available.

For additional information about the Kent State University Museum, go to http://www.kent.edu/muusem/, or call (330) 672-3450.

# # #

Kent State University Museum Features
Work by Porthouse Theater

What: The exhibition —Design at Porthouse, Celebrating 40 Years

When: May 22, 2008, to August 10, 2008

Where: Blum Gallery in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus.

Background: The exhibition Design at Porthouse, Celebrating 40 Years features costume, scenic and lighting designs seen at Porthouse Theatre in seasons past. This unique summer program, in its 40th year, provides a select group of students from throughout the country with advanced training by top theatre professionals. The result: nearly 2000 performances of 162 plays-from Shakespeare to Shepard---that have entertained over 300,000 patrons to date.

With productions ranging from standards to classics to new works, and from popular musicals to opera and operettas, the Porthouse Theatre program has earned a national reputation for outstanding, innovative performances. Porthouse Theatre has made significant contributions to the community with its outreach programs and community partnerships, raising funds and public awareness for organizations such as the King Kennedy Community Center, Stewart's Caring

The Kent State University Museum is privileged to join in the celebration of Porthouse Theatre's 40th year by showing examples of the outstanding design that has been seen at Porthouse in seasons past. A reception will be help on Thursday, June 19, 2008, from 5:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m This event is free and open to the public with RSVP by June 16 (call 330.672.3450).

The Kent State University Museum is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.; and Sunday from noon to 4:45 p.m. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

The museum is located in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus. Special guided tours are available for groups by reservation. Free on-site motor coach parking is available.

For additional information about the Kent State University Museum, go to http://www.kent.edu/muusem/, or call (330) 672-3450.

LINK TO PORTHOUSE EXHIBITION WEBSITE

# # #

What: The exhibition — In Bloom: Patterned Silk Design Innovation in Eighteenth Century France

When: March 6, 2008, to February 8, 2009

Where: Alumni Gallery in Rockwell Hall

Background: The eighteenth century was of one of the most spectacular periods of silk production in France. Due to regulations initiated to improve the quality of cloth produced during the reign of Louis XIV (1643-1715), silk manufacturing centers such as Lyon were able to capitalize on advancements in weaving technology to create luxurious textiles that were vital to the French economy.

In Du Commerce et des manufactures distinctives de la ville de Lyon, published in 1789, Abbé Bertholon described the affects that eighteenth century design innovations had on dazzled consumers, "…and then we saw astonishing things on cloth: flowers and fruit true to nature…rich hued and glorious birds…No one before had ever produced such work with so much skill, lightness of touch, and spontaneity in the draftsmanship..."

Traditionally, the French monarchy had always been an important patron of the silk industry, and consequently, the newest and most costly designs were first sold to the court. While advances in technology allowed for the development of new types of silk patterns, changes in design were foremost driven by French court taste. In addition to creating entirely new patterns, silk designers were able to satisfy the demand for frequent change by making slight alterations to existing patterns. Silk manufactures and vendors were also well aware of the court's power to drive consumption and to set trends that other consumer groups would later adopt. In Paris less expensive adaptations of new designs and even older designs were sold within France and to foreign cities and courts so that vendors could sell old stock while still maintaining some profit.

While it is clear that eighteenth century silk designs were driven by novelty and the tastes of the French court, silk manufacturers and merchants were quite savvy in their ability to meet the demands of the extremely sensitive patterned silk market while also attending to their own business interests.

The Kent State University Museum is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.; and Sunday from noon to 4:45 p.m. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

The museum is located in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus. Special guided tours are available for groups by reservation. Free on-site motor coach parking is available.

For additional information about the Kent State University Museum, go to http://www.kent.edu/muusem/, or call (330) 672-3450.

LINK TO IN BLOOM WEBSITE

# # #

Kent State University Museum Features
the Work of James Galanos

What: The exhibition — James Galanos: American Luxury

When: February 14, 2008, to March 1, 2009

Where: Stager Gallery in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus.

Background: James Galanos always made ready-to-wear, but he made it to the standard of the haute couture, the highest quality of dressmaking. In the history of the American fashion industry, no one has matched the accomplishments of his 46 year career.

From childhood Galanos knew that he wanted to be a fashion designer, but it was not an easy task to establish his own business, one that would allow him total control and thus insure that each garment would meet with his approval. His route to success took ten years and wound briefly through Traphagen School of Fashion and Hattie Carnegie in New York City; the movie industry at Columbia Pictures working under Jean Louis; a time in Paris at Robert Piguet; back to New York to work at Davidow, and finally, a return to Los Angeles. None of these positions satisfied him and none allowed him the creativity he sought. At last, in 1951, he found a sympathetic buyer at Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills who gave him his first order. In 1952 he was able to incorporate his business, Galanos Originals, and over the course of his career he never ceased his vigilant pursuit of quality. Many of his clients noted that the inside of his garments were as finished and beautiful as the outside. James Galanos retired in 1998, and has now turned his creative energy to photography.

As a designer, he began with the fabric, shopping mostly in Europe. Throughout his career he worked closely with a head tailor and a head dressmaker, giving them a sketch or concept with which to start the design process, but ultimately he draped the fabric on a house model to finalize the design. The extraordinary beading and embroidery found on Galanos designs was, for the most part, done by D. Getson Eastern Embroidery in Los Angeles with whom Galanos worked as closely as with his own staff. In the introductory essay in Galanos, the catalogue from the exhibition at the Western Reserve Historical Society and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Barry Bradley writes that Galanos, when persuaded to speak about his creative work, ". . . becomes almost lyrical. He speaks of the satisfaction of working with the fabric, of having something take shape under his hands, to the excitement that occurs when something happens in the draping. . . ." In the same publication, Bernadine Morris, the former fashion editor of the New York Times, writes that Galanos "brought brilliance and quality to styles meant to be bought off the rack." She credits this as his major contribution to the American fashion industry.

The Kent State University Museum is fortunate to have more than 120 different garments by James Galanos in its collection. This exhibition is only a glimpse of the remarkable talent of this creative American. Alicia Vangilder, a senior Fashion Design major, developed the exhibition as an Honors Independent Study. Alicia selected the garments, drafted the labels, drew the flats and assisted with the installation.

he Kent State University Museum is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.; and Sunday from noon to 4:45 p.m. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

The museum is located in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus. Special guided tours are available for groups by reservation. Free on-site motor coach parking is available.

For additional information about the Kent State University Museum, go to http://www.kent.edu/muusem/, or call (330) 672-3450.

LINK TO GALANOS EXHIBITION WEBSITE

# # #

What: The exhibition — Belle Époque Brides

When: January 24, 2008 to January 4, 2009

Where: Higbee Gallery in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus.

Background: The exhibition Belle Époque Brides will feature bridal gowns and artifacts from the museum's collection that represent wedding customs in the United States and Europe during the period between 1875 and 1914, a period known as the "Gilded Age" in the United States, and in France as La Belle Époque, the "Beautiful Time."

The exhibit spans a time of great change in the lives of women as expressed in fashion. There was a surge in artistic expression, an increasing divide between rich and poor, and expanding imperialism. New forms of music, dance and fashion were controversial, evoking even violent reactions such as the riot in 1913 at the first performance by the Ballets Russes of Stravinsky's ballet, Le Sacre du Printemps, The Rite of Spring.

French styles during La Belle Époque greatly influenced fashion throughout Europe and the United States, changing throughout the decades. Bridal fashions followed this trend, adding touches of romance to the fashionable silhouette. The devastation brought on by World War I, including the loss of so many young men, effectively brought to an end that lifestyle and the period known as the La Belle Époque.

The costumes and artifacts on display in the Higbee Gallery represent brides of the late 19th and early 20th centuries and include wedding ensembles, portraits, wedding documents, shoes, trousseau lingerie, and other unique pieces.

The Kent State University Museum is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.; and Sunday from noon to 4:45 p.m. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

The museum is located in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus. Special guided tours are available for groups by reservation. Free on-site motor coach parking is available.

For additional information about the Kent State University Museum, go to http://www.kent.edu/muusem/, or call (330) 672-3450.

LINK TO BRIDE WEBSITE

# # #

What: The exhibition—Native Americans through the Prism of Culture: Edward S. Curtis & the Legacy of Collectors - is open at the Kent State Museum.

When: June 22, 2007 to June 15, 2008

Where: Palmer and Mull Galleries in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus.

Background: The exhibition Native Americans through the Prism of Culture: Edward S. Curtis & the Legacy of Collectors is a collaborative effort between two Northeast Ohio cultural institutions, Stan Hywet Hall & Gardens and the Kent State University Museum. The exhibition features photographs of Native Americans by Edward S. Curtis, as well as artifacts from different tribal groups. The exhibition includes items from the collections of Stan Hywet Hall founder Franklin August Seiberling, Kent State University Museum founder Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman, as well as Valerie and Dean Hugebeck, and provides the opportunity to address the issues of subjectivity and idealism both in collecting practices and in the photographic work of Edward S. Curtis.

In an effort to document the lives of the Native peoples of North America, Curtis embarked on a life-long journey that generated over 40,000 photographs. With great zeal and determination, he began collecting images in 1889 amidst devastating political legislation designed to "civilize Indians." Despite the best intentions, his work was a product of its time and was marked by the imaginative and emotional appeal of the heroic, adventurous, remote, and mysterious. Through the lens of his camera an idealized world took shape where, as an outsider and an artist, many of his own perceptions distorted his initial factual intentions. Often staged and inaccurate, his beautiful photographs captivated his contemporaries and have shaped our understanding of the First Nations to this day.

The apparent transparency of the photographer's lens tends to hide the eye behind the instrument. The biased view one culture imposes on another is still a constant preoccupation among archeologists and historians. The work of Curtis continues to appeal to a broad audience despite its flaws and must be viewed in historical perspective. The same factors that caused Curtis to narrow his vision influence the selective focus of collectors and curators. The visual compositions of the photographs, the artifacts collected, and the stories told in this exhibition are a legacy that continues to be questioned and examined.

The Kent State University Museum is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.; and Sunday from noon to 4:45 p.m. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

The museum is located in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus. Special guided tours are available for groups by reservation. Free on-site motor coach parking is available.

For additional information about the Kent State University Museum, go to http://www.kent.edu/muusem/, or call (330) 672-3450.

LINK TO CURTIS WEBSITE

# # #

What: The exhibition —Carnival Glass: The First Decade - is open at the Kent State Museum.

When: Open now; ongoing

Where: Tarter/Miller Gallery in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets.

Background: Initially called "Iridescent Ware" by the Fenton Art Glass Company in the early 1900s, the glassware features a vivid metallic sheen of changing hues on pressed glass. Soon after its introduction, other glassmakers followed Fenton into the trend. The new iridescent products from Fenton and other companies were popular in the United States from 1908-1915. Later in the 1950s, this glassware was eagerly sought out by collectors. The phrase "Carnival Glass" was coined when stories surfaced that some of the glass was used as prizes for midway games.

All pieces of this exhibition are from the Tarter/Miller Collection in the Kent State University Museum.

The Kent State University Museum is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; Thursday from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.; and Sunday from noon to 4:45 p.m. It is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

The museum is located in Rockwell Hall on the corner of East Main and South Lincoln streets on the Kent Campus. Special guided tours are available for groups by reservation. Free on-site motor coach parking is available.

For additional information about the Kent State University Museum, go to http://www.kent.edu/muusem/, or call (330) 672-3450.

LINK TO CARNIVAL GLASS WEBSITE

# # #