|
The Kent
State University Museum is fortunate to have in its collection
exceptional examples of the formal sashes, the obi, worn
with traditional Japanese kimono on special occasions. Of the
many ways to tie these sashes, two are demonstrated in this
exhibition: the otaiko, or drum, and the fukura-suzume,
or swallow. It is the fukura-suzume that is worn with
the furisode, the swinging sleeve kimono worn by young
unmarried women.
Five of
the examples in the gallery are unsewn. The textiles are just
as they would come from the loom before being made into obi.
They are generally four meters long and seventy centimeters
wide. The elaborate patterns are sometimes hand-woven, and I
have watched Japanese weavers in Kyoto use serrated nails on
their fingers to comb the silk weft threads into place. The
length of fabric is folded in half, stiffened with a lining,
and sewn together. In the most formal obi both sides
are patterned as both are visible in the finished knot. The
pattern is carefully spaced to be seen to the best advantage
in the various knots.
The process
of tying the obi begins with a wide stiffened belt wrapped
and fastened around the waist. Next the obi is placed
at the waist and wrapped around the body: twice for the otaiko
and once for the fukura-suzume. In demonstrations, two
or three women work together to tie the obi as there
is a certain amount of pulling and twisting involved while the
person being dressed must stand quite still. The obi
must be held in place after each fold or twist with cords or
scarves. About halfway through the process a small pad is placed
at the center back to give volume to the finished look once
the ends of the obi are draped over the pad and secured
in place. The following Web site shows a series of steps in
tying the fukura-suzume:
www.hana-usagi.net/base/kituke-fukurasuzume1.htm
I am indebted
to Dr. Yuko Kurahashi from the Kent State University School
of Theatre and Dance for her patience and assistance as I practiced
tying these obi.
We are pleased
to present this exhibition in conjunction with the exhibition
Kimono, art by Itchiku Kubota, to be held at the Canton
Museum of Art from February 8 - April 26, 2009. Concurrent with
the Canton exhibition, Kent State Stark will have an exhibition,
Inspired by Japan: Resist Dye Techniques Traditional and
Modern, featuring work by Rebecca Cross and students from
the Kent State University School of Art, and including kimono
from the Museum's collection. I encourage you to visit all three
exhibitions.
Jean L.
Druesedow, Director
Kent State University Museum
Exhibition Curator
|