Mood Indigo


	Rapture Horst, Stow, Ohio, 2007 Falkland wool hand felted and dyed with synthetic indigo Three piece ensemble which consists of a dress, overskirt and shrug jacket. On loan from Horst L2007.15.1ac

	Overalls Sears, Roebuck and Co., United States of America, ca. 1970s Cotton jeans with brass clips Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 73.44.19

	Evening Dress Linda Öhrn-McDaniel, Tallmadge, Ohio, 2007 Recycled jeans and Svarowski crystals On loan from Linda Ohrn-McDaniel L2007.17.1

	Bathing Costume Ohio, ca. 1900 Wool plain-weave knickers and tunic trimmed with white braid and mother-of-pearl buttons. Worn by Mrs. Charles Hoover. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 57.116ab

	Evening Dress Sherry Schofield-Tomschin, Ravenna, Ohio, 2005 Cotton jeans and polyester crêpe On loan from Sherry Schofield-Tomschin, Ph.D. L2007.8.1

	Day Ensemble Ohio, Cleveland, 1897 Silk taffeta with ikat style floral motifs and ribbon weave stripes, black silk chiffon with ivory lace appliqué, satin ribbon trim, lace cuffs and glass buttons. Worn by Mrs. William B. Sanders. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 46.483ab

	Day Ensemble Label reads: "Farren Cleveland O," 1910 Printed silk twill, cut steel buttons, silk velvet trim, silk plain weave and ribbon at bodice. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 65.68.23ab

	Tailored Ensemble Europe, ca. 1901 Jacket and skirt of chiné wool trimmed with buttons and silk passementerie, skirt of silk plaid taffeta with brass buttons. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 43.217abc

	Cocktail Dress Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior, France, Paris, Fall-Winter 1959 Taffeta and machine lace trim. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 86.64.37 Installation shoes Hat Label reads: "The Halle Bros. Co.," Ohio, Cleveland, ca. 1950-1960 Feathers on buckram base. Gift of Faith followers of Helen Steiner Rice KSUM 1996.010.0003

	Encre Bleu Day Ensemble Christian Dior, France, Paris, Autumn 1949 Wool twill gabardine bodice and overskirt, silk piqué camisole and skirt, leather belt. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 86.64.161a-d Hat Label reads: "Original by Lecie Label: The Lawton Company, Cincinnati," ca. 1935-1949 Wool felt and silk faille trim. Worn by Margaret Peschke, milliner in Cleveland and Versailles, Ohio. Gift of Mrs. Fredericka Lindquist KSUM 1987.021.0003 Shoes Label reads: "Lustig's/Debs/Youngstown," ca. 1945-1949 Silk faille and leather. Anonymous Gift KSUM X1997.025.0001ab

	Day Dress Jacques Fath, France, Paris, ca. 1954 Printed cotton plain-weave. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 95.51.1 Hat United States of America, ca. 1960s-1970s Ivory silk satin with silk flowers. Gift of Mary Ann Oberlin (Mrs. Michael) KSUM 1988.038.0003

	Wool Coat Jacques Fath, France, Paris, Spring 1954 Wool cloth. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 86.64.88 Installation shoes Hat United States of America, ca. 1950-1955 Straw with silk velvet ribbon trim Gift of J.C. Selig and A.C. Rosenberg in memory of D.T. Cashman KSUM 1995.009.0008

	Cocktail Dress Maison Goma, France, Paris, Fall 1959 Silk satin. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 86.64.64 Installation shoes Hat Label reads: "Miss Dior. Created by Christian Dior." France, Paris, ca. 1960-1956 Purchased at "The Stern & Mann Co., Canton, Ohio." Silk organza cut to create feather shapes. Pink wool trim. Gift of Matilda Miller KSUM 1994.023.0019

	Printed Day Dress United States of America, Ohio, Connecticut Western Reserve, ca. 1877-1882 Printed plain-weave cotton with white paisley motifs and decorative bands. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 77.76.1ab

	Interior Gown with Center Front Decorative Bands United States of America, Ohio, Connecticut Western Reserve, ca. 1860s Printed plain-weave cotton with pink, tan and white floral motifs and front bands with paisley motifs. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 57.652 Installation ribbon at waist

	Interior Gown with Train United States of America, Ohio, Connecticut Western Reserve, ca. 1870s Printed plain-weave cotton with white circle motifs. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 42.4162

	Plaid Dress Over Hoop Skirt United States of America, Ohio, Connecticut Western Reserve, ca. 1850s Silk plain-weave fabric and decorative trim. Worn by Mrs. Henry Kirtland Morse. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 41.2784

	Printed Dress with Tight Sleeves United States of America, Ohio, Connecticut Western Reserve, late 1840s-early 1850s Printed plain-weave cotton in variegated blue, pink, brown, tan and green. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 53.64

	Checked Dress with Bust Gathering United States of America, Ohio, Connecticut Western Reserve, ca. 1826 Silk plain-weave. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 67.111.10

	Man's Frock Coat United States of America, possibly worn in the Northwest Territory or in Ohio within the Connecticut Western Reserve, ca. 1775-1790s Fulled wool cloth with pewter buttons. Loaned by the Western Reserve Historical Society WRHS 65.124.1a

	Beneath Still Waters (#371) Janice Lessman-Moss, Kent, Ohio, ©1/07 Linen and nylon handwoven jacquard. On loan from Janice Lessman-Moss L2007.16.1

	Sari India, 1999 Printed cotton plain-weave. Anonymous loan L2007.12.1 Installation bodice (choli)

	Sari India, ca. 1940s Iridescent silk brocade with metallic threads. On loan from Dr. Saroj Sutaria, Professor Emeritus, KSU L2007.11.1a Installation bodice (choli)

	Aerial Map Blue/Brown Rebecca Cross, Oberlin, Ohio, 2005 The base is acid-dyed silk habutai which has been over dyed using shibori pole-dyeing, in which the silk is tied around a pole before entering the dye bath. Appliquéd areas are acid-dyed silk organza and silk chiffon (some of which is felted with wool) that are shape-resisted (where objects are tied into the silks and wool, then fixed in a dye bath). Hand quilted and embroidered with silk threads, ribbons and cords. Lent by the artist L2007.014.0001

	Imaginary Map Blue/Brown Rebecca Cross, Oberlin, Ohio, 2005 The base is silk habutai, clamp-dyed in acid dye. Appliquéd pieces are silk organza which is felted with wool (nuno-felting). The organza is shape-resisted (where objects are tied into the fabric) and color-resisted in acid dye baths. Machine quilted. Lent by the artist L2007.014.0002

	Indigo 3 Series Rebecca Cross, Oberlin, Ohio, 2006 The base is silk dupioni, screen-printed with acrylic pigment. The screen design was derived from enlarged images of tracings from other shibori pieces which were placed on a light box. The top layer is silk organza, shape-resisted (where the silk is tied or manipulated) and color-resisted in an indigo dye bath. The pieces are hand embroidered with various threads. Lent by the artist L2007.014.0003abc

	Quilted Coat Persia, first quarter of the twentieth century Off-white cotton plain-weave decorated with block-printed floral motifs with indigo, red and brown dyes. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.0968

	Woman's Jacket Persia, last quarter of the nineteenth century Off-white cotton plain-weave decorated with block-printed floral motifs with indigo, red and brown dyes. Transferred from the Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin College, Oberlin, Ohio. KSUM 1995.017.0130

	Woman's Jacket Persia, twentieth century Off-white cotton plain-weave decorated with block-printed floral motifs in diamond shapes with indigo, red and brown dyes. Gift of The Museum at FIT KSUM 2000.063.0009

	Woman's Dress Palestine, Mejdel, first half of the twentieth century Indigo-dyed cotton plain-weave with greenish yellow, white and pink stripes. Transferred from the Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin College, Oberlin, Ohio. KSUM 1995.017.1028

	Woman's Munisak Robe Uzbekistan, possibly from Bukhara, ca.1860s Warp-faced plain weave silk warp and cotton weft ikat (adras, ishtope, or dagir) resist-dyeing technique. Rare indigo dyed ikat with grayish-white (ground color) and yellow abstracted floral motifs and pink dashes. Underarm gussets in orange/pink and purple/orange adras ikat. Pink, purple and yellow embroidery above side slits. Padded and quilted vertically. Lined in several Russian cotton printed fabrics with stripes as well as floral and boteh (paisley) motifs. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.1993

	Dress Palestine, ca. 1925-1945 Indigo-dyed cotton plain-weave with pieces embroidered and brocaded sections. Princess Ileana of Romania Collection KSUM 1987.015.0028

	Caftan Middle East, ca. 1970s Navy, white and yellow striped cotton plain-weave. From the collection of and in memory of James Melvin Someroski KSUM 1997.006.0029

	*Tunic (Tobe)* West African, Liberia, ca. 1960-1965 Indigo-dyed plain-weave cotton warp ikat resist-dyeing technique. Yellow cotton embroidery. Collected by the donors when Mr. Heller was advisor at the Booker T. Washington Institute in Kakata, Liberia. Gift of James and Ethel Heller KSUM 1985.045.0009

	Shirt and Pants Ensemble Japan, ca. 1970s to early 1980s Navy cotton plain-weave weft ikat resist-dyeing technique with indigo, red and light blue warp threads. Gift of M&M G.W.Rye in memory of M&M James N Wyant KSUM 1985.032.0011

	*Tunic (Tobe)* Africa, Nigeria or Sudan, ca. 1900-1980 Indigo-dyed cotton plain-weave with woven check of light blue on navy. Cream and yellow cotton embroidery and open-work forming large spirals in front and back as well as other abstracted motifs on the front left and around the neckline. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.0887a

	Kimono Japan, twentieth century White silk plain-twill with light blue design printed to resemble the so-hitta technique (all-over knotting in grid) of shibori dying through binding, stitching, folding, twisting, or compressing fabric. Gift of Marlene Mancini Frost KSUM 2000.030.0002

	Kimono Japan, last quarter of the nineteenth century Ramie plain-weave with floral decoration in double ikat resist-dyeing technique. In the complex double ikat technique, both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. Gift of Joseph L. Brotherton KSUM 1986.134.0002

	*Wrapping Cloth (Furoshiki)* Japan, ca. 1870-1920 Indigo dyed cotton plain-weave decorated with paste-resist dyeing (tsutsugaki) creating a noshi motif. Noshi is an ancient symbol of good luck normally fastened to gifts given on auspicious occasions. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.1194

	*Theatrical Kimono and Trousers (Hakama)* Japan, Meiji period (1868-1912) Indigo dyed cotton and ramie plain-weave decorated with resist dyeing technique creating family crest (mon) motifs trimmed with natural leather strips. This type of ensemble appears in kyogen theater, the comic interludes between plays in Noh theater. Gift of Joseph L. Brotherton KSUM 1986.134.0001

	Girl's Kimono Japan, nineteenth century Silk plain-weave decorated with resist dyeing techniques creating dragon roundels and undefined family crest (mon) motifs against medium blue ground. Lined with orange silk and lightly padded with cotton wadding. Gift of Joseph L. Brotherton KSUM 1986.134.0004

	*Child's Vest or Campaign Jacket (Jimbaori)* Japan, second half of the nineteenth century Cotton plain-weave decorated with a landscape composition through painted and resist-dyeing techniques. Gift of Joseph L. Brotherton KSUM 1986.134.0005

	*Fabric for Bedding (Futonji)* Japan, late nineteenth century Indigo-dyed cotton plain-weave decorated with paste-resist dyeing (tsutsugaki) creating family crest (mon), crane, pine tree and bamboo motifs. This specific seven circle crest belongs to a Daimyo family on the island of Kyushu. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.1189

	*Unpadded Kimono-shaped Futon Cover (Yogi)* Japan, late nineteenth century Nuptial indigo-dyed cotton plain-weave decorated with paste-resist dyeing (tsutsugaki) creating noshi and chrysanthemum motifs. Noshi is an ancient symbol of good luck normally fastened to gifts given on auspicious occasions, among them wedding ceremonies. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.2154

	*Padded Kimono-shaped Futon Cover (Yogi)* Japan, late nineteenth century Nuptial indigo-dyed cotton plain-weave decorated with paste-resist dyeing (tsutsugaki) creating phoenix and paulownia tree motifs (kiri hoo). Padded with cotton wadding. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.0883

	*Unpadded Kimono-shaped Futon Cover (Yogi)* Japan, late nineteenth century Nuptial indigo-dyed cotton plain-weave decorated with paste-resist dyeing (tsutsugaki) creating phoenix, paulownia tree and insect cage motifs. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.2155

	Kimono Japan, late twentieth century Commercially printed cotton plain-weave in a variety of patterns on both sides of the cloth. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.0865

	Composite Textile Japan, second half of the nineteenth century Cotton plain-weaves with katasome, tsutsugaki and kasuri resist dye techniques as well as woven stripe embellishments. Gift of Joseph L. Brotherton KSUM 1986.134.0006

	Textile Indonesia, Java, ca. 1925-1950 Cotton plain-weave. White star motifs on blue dyed ground created through resist dying using the batik technique. Gift of Lowell O. Mellen KSUM 1986.137.0003

	Textile Signed: "Batik - Tulis, Winotosastro, Yogya - Indonesia (artist's signature)" Indonesia, Yogyakarta, twentieth century Cotton plain-weave. Foo dogs and small figures are created through resist dying using the batik technique. Gift of Benay "Venuta" Honie KSUM 1990.011.0026

	Manchu Man's Informal Domestic Robe China, late nineteenth century Blue silk velours ciselé (cut velvet) woven to shape with large dragon and floral roundels. The three spears that rise from the vase of flowers mean "May I rise in rank." The textile is especially interesting because it is patterned entirely by cut and uncut loops of the velvet pile. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.0813

	Manchu Official's Semi-formal Robe China, ca. 1928-1929 Blue silk gauze fabric with embroidered designs of dragons and clouds in multicolored threads. Gift of J. Jerome Lackamp in memory of Leo G. Lackamp KSUM 1997.070.0004

	Manchu Official's Semi-formal Robe China, late Qing dynasty, ca. 1900 Blue silk tapestry (kesi) woven with multicolored threads. Garments in this section are known as "dragon robes," and are covered with both Buddhist and Taoist symbols. The dragon is the most powerful of the mythical beasts. It stands as a symbol of imperial authority and is a personification of the great forces of nature. Gift of Nancy Hegy KSUM 1994.076.0001

	Manchu Official's Semi-formal Robe China, late Qing dynasty, ca. 1900 Blue silk gauze fabric with gold couched embroidery. Transferred from the Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin College, Oberlin, Ohio KSUM 1995.017.1008

	Woman's Semi-formal Surcoat China, nineteenth century Deep navy silk satin with gold couched embroidery. Because of the style and quality of the surcoat, it may have been appropriate for a prince or princess. The garment is less formal as the roundels contain cranes and flowers rather than dragons. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.0808

	Man's Semi-formal Rank Robe China, ca. 1900 Navy silk jacquard with large roundels of dragons. Badges of rank were worn by Mandarin military and civil officials. Badges for military officials, chosen by their level of bravery, depicted animals and mythical beasts. The Manchurian crane was the symbol for the first rank of civil official and a Qi lin (mythical animal) was the symbol for the first rank of military official. Gift of Nancy Hegy KSUM 1994.076.0002

	Man's Informal Surcoat China, ca. 1900 Navy silk gauze woven with roundels. Transferred from the Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin College, Oberlin, Ohio KSUM 1995.017.0559

	Woman's Informal Jacket China, late nineteenth century Navy silk gauze trimmed with green silk embroidered bands and black silk satin bindings. Silverman/Rodgers Collection KSUM 1983.001.0777